Wellington a.k.a. coffee blogger's heaven

My expectations of Wellington were very high as I had heard a lot about its coffee scene and was really excited to dive in and submerge myself in caffeine wonderland. I must say that the rumours were true: "Welly" knows good coffee.

Hangar Flight coffee (@FlightHangar). There was no way I could visit Wellington without going to Hangar; they are mentioned by everyone asked for coffee suggestions, they have produced the 5th Barista in the World in the WBC 2013 and they roast their own coffee. I decided that I may as well start my coffee tour of Wellington there. I was expecting to be blown away. I wasn't. That's probably because the pressure was so high. My coffee was very nice and the eggs well scrambled if slightly too oily for my liking but none of that was exceptional. I loved their warehouse-like space with wooden and metal knick knacks and cool branding. The place is very popular and by the time I was leaving the queue was going out the door.

The second on my list was Memphis Belle Coffee House as they also serve Flight Coffee and this time I was truly won over. My flat white was served in an Acme cup (very few places in NZ serve coffee in anything else) and I can only describe it as smooth and satisfying. The place itself is quite small but has an outside space with comfy armchairs. It's cluttered, chaotic and random with a collection of chairs and tables that don't necessarily belong to any particular place. I loved it.

Acme's HQ - Prefab Eatery (@PrefabEatery). Nearly all of the coffee shops I had visited in NZ so far used Acme cups to serve their coffee in so I felt compelled to check out Acme & Co's headquarters on Jessie St. They are based in a large airy space with plenty of natural light and wooden furniture. Having gone there at lunch time I got a seat by the counter - my favourite spot for observation and talking to staff. The place was packed full despite its enormous size but the waiting and kitchen staff didn't seem fazed by it. This is a spot where things are happening.

Red Rabbit (@RedRabbitCoffee) wasn't on my list but as it happens I was sent a link with Sprudge's description of it and couldn't resist having a peak. The shop opened just 17 weeks ago and has been busy ever since. At the time of my visit they were roasting their beans at Peoples Coffee whilst awaiting the final parts for their own roaster. Steve Barrett, the man behind the company, wasn't there but his staff made me feel like I know him already. I had a v60 Ethiopian coffee - fruity and smooth with delicate flavours, it was beautifully roasted. I was told that the place is popular amongst the coffee crowd, which is pretty significant in this coffee-obsessed town, they are visiting and trying the wares and leave great feedback. I'm not surprised - I had a wonderful afternoon sitting by the bar, watching the coffee being made, sipping coffee and talking coffee (Welly coffee scene in general, best coffee cups etc). It's a very cool little shop with a selection of cakes from the Leeds St bakery located in the same premises and visible through a hole in the wall. I was kindly given a cardamon and pistachio shortbread to sample and if it is anything to go by, their cakes are awesome. I asked about the origins of their name - Red Rabbit doesn't bring any coffee associations to my mind. As it turned out, Steve had a door mat shaped like a red rabbit and he felt that it accompanied him along his coffee journey so the name stayed. It also gives them an opportunity for some wonderful puns such us 'HOPper blend'. As with any new independent shop I wish them best of luck but I have a feeling they won't need it.

           

                    

Nikau (@nikaucafe): I started my second Wellington day at Nikau with a Coffee Supreme flat white and had some crunchy muesli served with yoghurt and poached plums compote to go with it. It turned out the sun does come out in Wellington so I made the most out of it by sitting outside. I'm not sure what makes food eaten outdoors so much tastier but it certainly is. Nikau is a nice, relaxed place located just by the City Art Gallery, which is also worth a visit. I could sit there for hours but as I was on a tight schedule and had to move on!

                                                                                 

Custom Brew (@CUSTOMSBREWBAR), my fifth coffee in Wellington, was another Coffee Supreme. I was after a v60 again as I really enjoy filter coffee and the recommendation was a Kenyan Mugaya AA coffee. The aroma is described as orange zest, maple and cinnamon, it certainly smells very sweet and tastes of cocoa and plums (although that might just be me still reminiscing about my breakfast). I sat in the sun and watched the world go by, people strolling around and I couldn't have been further away from the London rush. And that's where I would like to stay.

                 

Peoples Coffee (@peoplescoffeenz) was mentioned to me by many, the guys themselves also made their voices heard on Twitter so I had to venture out to Newtown to see them. It was worth the trek as the filter Guatemalan was light enough to enjoy as a third coffee of the day. The place has got a nice neighbourhood feel to it - seems like the baristas know their customers, I suspect quite a few regulars, and are up for some friendly banter.

                     


Ti Kouka (@tikoukacafe): I have no doubts that the Kiwis are a breakfast nation and it is another reason why I feel so at home here. It doesn't matter what I eat for the rest of the day but I have to have a decent breakfast. So I made the most of it here. Ti Kouka's menu looked perfect for a Saturday start and my last meal in Wellington. I wasn't disappointed: a generous helping of eggs with rye bread, tomatoes and avocado landed in front of me shortly after ordering and washed down with a flat white set me up nicely for the weekend.

   

Lamason (@LamasonBrewBar): As it happens I planned to go to Lamason on a Saturday but came across it on my Friday mission and despite already having had 3 coffees that day I thought I better go in. They were just about to close up for the day but served me a beautiful flat white. Whilst sat at the bar (where else?) I couldn't miss the machine next to me with lab-like glass tubes. And just like that I was introduced to the famous Siphon. I simply had to go back the next day to try the coffee it makes. I had an Ethiopian Sidamo from Peoples coffee and was utterly mesmerised as I watched it being made. The bizarre process starts with weighing up the right amount of coffee, lighting up the base, then filling the round glass vessel with water, which once heated turns into a water vapour, getting the glass filter ready, placing the coffee in it and waiting for the hot water to be forced (or vacuumed) up (well, that's more or less it how it works anyway). The result is a light, clean black coffee. It's my new favourite - totally worth the effort going into it and so much fun to watch!

  

I was also planning on going to Caffe L'Affarre (@laffare) but it being a Saturday morning, the queue was simply too long for me if I wanted to catch my flight later that afternoon. As if I needed a reason to come back...