The (coffee) crown of the NZ South Island - Nelson
I arrived in Nelson just before the storm: Cyclone Lusi was making her way towards the South Island and we were told to expect some heavy rain and wind over the next 2 days.
I hadn't experienced a cyclone before and I don't know if it is
because Nelson got the tail end of it but it actually wasn't that bad. Yes,
the wind was strong and yes, it rained non-stop for some 15 hours but it still felt rather warm. I
expected having to lie on my bunk bed all day and praying for the roof not to
collapse so the fact that I managed to venture out to a coffee shop and have a
great breakfast was definitely a bonus. Speaking of coffee shops, here is my run down of Nelson:
Morrisons Street Cafe. When gathering info on Nelson coffee
shops I didn't take into account that most of them are located in Richmond
which, as it turned out, was quite a way away from my hostel. With it being a
Sunday and middle of the storm, it had to be somewhere walkable for me to access it. One of the tourist leaflets I picked up at the airport
recommended Morrisons Street Cafe and after checking their breakfast menu I
knew I had to try it. I'm still shocked every time I see the size of a Kiwi
breakfast - my bowl of bircher muesli turned out to be a stew size bowl filled
with goodness: berry couli, bananas, blueberries, sweet dukkah, chia seeds,
oats and apple. Who needs free toast at the hostel? They serve Atomic
Roasters coffee which I meant to but didn't get round to trying in Auckland and it
was very pleasant. The place itself was really busy, which was a nice contrast
to the deserted streets. It had a lazy Sunday feel to it - wooden tables were
lined with weekend papers and no one seemed in a rush to get somewhere (apart
from the staff who were very quick and efficient). Morrisons tag line is cafe
gallery so there are some beautiful pieces displayed on the walls. I couldn't
have wished for a better spot to hide from the storm in.

Once the storm was over I picked up a bike and cycled the Great Taste Trail to Richmond to meet with the Pomeroy's team.
Pomeroy's (@pomeroyscoffee) got in touch with me via
Twitter and we arranged to meet at their Coffee Factory where they kindly
offered to show me around as well as take me to some other shops in Richmond. I met up with Lawry
(and briefly Emma whose coffee school is based in the same building and who is
a bit of a coffee legend, having won the title of the first NZ's barista
champion in 2001, being a founder member of several coffee associations and
sitting as a judge of multiple coffee competitions). I was given a tour of the
roastery and a warehouse space where their coffee and tea are stored, as well as
a first hand experience of their huge 60kg roaster. I am used to small batch
roasteries, which use machines half the size so I was visibly impressed. As
Pomeroy's have been around for 25 years and have a loyal client base and supply
many cafes as well as trade online, it makes sense that their roasting needs
are higher. I was told they usually have between 15-20 different single origins
and do quite a lot of blending (their house blend has about 5 or 6 different
single origins going into it). Their green coffee comes from indirect trade
through suppliers from Auckland but their ambition is to form a relationship
with coffee farms directly. They also have a smaller 1kg roaster upstairs for
all of their coffee experiments and tasting. Once we'd seen backstage it
was time to sample some coffee: I spotted some beans from Panama and having
never tried coffee from there before I was really keen to do so. Drunk as a filter it was surprisingly light and acidic, quite different to my usual Ethiopian
or Kenyan brew.
Once we were done at Pomeroy's it
was time to explore Richmond and as Lawry had a delivery to make, and I
desperately needed breakfast, our first stop was Cafe on Oxford. The shop is
unusual in Nelson terms as it uses several brewing technics such as Chemex and
V60. Whilst New Zealand is very much into their espresso based drinks, I felt
that it is even more so in Nelson than Wellington or Auckland. I decided on a
Sumatran pourover and some beautifully scrambled eggs with a side of roasted
tomato and cumin. Sitting outside in the sun, our coffee chat continued and
with Caffeination (@caffeinationNZ) starting in Welly the following weekend, moved on to coffee
competitions and its importance as well as to comparisons of UK and NZ coffee
scenes.
Full and happy again, I could move
on to stops no. 3 and 4, both owned by a lovely Michelle who I also had a
pleasure of meeting. Ginger Cafe (@cafe_ginger) and Ambrosia (@Ambrosia_Cafe) are located in the same shopping
mall, although on opposite ends, but couldn't be more different. Whilst the
newly (6 months) open Ginger is smaller and serves food from a cabinet and
espresso based drinks, Ambrosia is the big sister with a wider range in terms
of a food and drink menu. Apart from the owner, they have one more thing in
common: they both serve Pomeroy's coffee and Ginger even have their own
blend - slightly sweeter and designed especially for them. To say I've had a
great morning / early afternoon would be an understatement - meeting great
people and seeing their different coffee ideas in practice is what attracted me
to writing this blog in the first place. I can't stress that enough but Kiwis
really do know customer service and London could learn a lot from them!
What a shame you didn't get to sample the great coffee roasted and blended on-site at Zumo and Kush, two Nelson institutions. Or the amazing courtyard and food at Devilles.
ReplyDeleteIt is a shame! Next time though
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